A West Highland Way Adventure by Holly Robertson
Holly Robertson ·
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Holly Robertson ·
They say there’s no better way to explore than on foot, and after my journey I must agree —though my legs might still be holding a grudge! From the winding trails, mossy forests to expansive breath-taking views, this trip was the perfect mix of adventure and wilderness and gave me the opportunity to connect with nature. Whether it was tackling the miles or taking in the stunning views, every step felt like a refreshing break from the daily grind. Let me take you through the most memorable moments of my West Highland Way adventure.
On the road at 6am hoping to arrive in Milngavie before midday, the start of our adventure! Filled with espresso and excitement we were wide awake and ready to go. After 4 speedy hours we stopped at the monumental Tebay services. Sounds strange to speak so highly of a service station but if you know, you know! We gawked over the delightful deli counters and piles of patisserie. To our delight when arriving back at the car we were greeted with a hand crochet bunny with a note that ‘If found and made you smile, please take me home’ as a random act of kindness, how sweet! We took this as a good omen for our trip.
On the road again we finally arrived in Milngavie, at last! We parked up and set off. This was an incredibly weird feeling. Walking away from the car and heading into the city it was strange, checking my pockets, re-checking every footwell in the car to ensure I hadn’t forgotten anything, no going back now.
We reached the iconic monument in the middle of Milngavie that marks the start of the West Highland Way. Tapping our hands over the granite obelisk to solidify our start of the journey. Anticipation and exhilaration drove us forward as we had now taken our first few steps in starting the 96-mile journey ahead.
The trail starts off through the city park and woodland, we soon edged out of the familiar sounds of the town and into the wild… well not really. The first day is relaxed, walking through a mixture of fields, lanes and road. However, we soon reached Craigallian Loch the first of many lochs. We stopped for a snack and to relax, excited to see what is yet to come. One of my favourite parts of the first day on the path, was the abundance of honesty boxes we walked past (these are little unmanned stalls with homemade/shop bought snacks) that have been set up by local people outside their houses or in quiet areas with no shops around. I loved this aspect of the path this immediate sense of feeling welcomed, trusted and cared for. Small fridges stocked with fizzy drinks and home-made goods were great little boosts throughout the path.
Morning was here! We survived the first day, there was a sense of archivement commencing already. The day started uphill with winding pine woodlands until we reached level ground to see Conic Hill in front of us. Conic Hill is a sharp little summit (1,184 ft) but doesn’t take long to tackle. We had a relatively clear day, and were blessed with the stunning views of Loch Lomond and the highlands beyond. Balmaha was a natural place to stop after the challenge, fuelling up on a haggis toasty and a cup of tea – this was a great little spot filled with walkers. It was nice to finally be on the Loch Lomond, we made sure to soak up as much of the views as possible as we would be sheltered by the forest for the next couple of days.
Walking along Loch Lomond is quite the achievement in itself, being one of the longest Lochs in Scotland. Immediately we were greeted with the tree canopy, jumbling roots underfoot and huge trees we had to weave through. There was even the occasional ladder to climb up and down due to large rock forms on the path. Looking back, I found this the hardest part of the entire path, all these factors made walking fairly strenuous and took us a long time to cover any distance even though it felt as if we had walked miles. However, you really do reap the rewards as the scenery is just breathtaking, every so often we passed secluded bays and pebble beaches, the thick woodland areas are filled with ancient oak and birch trees, providing shade and a peaceful atmosphere. As we walked in April this was before any pesky midges, this allowed us to take as many stops as we wanted to just marvel at the loch looking out for otters and beavers. When we edged up away from the shore we were surrounded by thick mossy stone walls and humongous trees that reached far up into the sky. Binoculars out we were seeking to find any traces of red squirrels or deer that roamed the forests. There is such an abundance of wildlife of flora and fauna all year round on the Loch, it was such a pleasure to witness this firsthand.
A great little stop along the path to peek inside is Rowchoish bothy, which is not too far from Inversnade, this was a good to stop and chat to other walkers and experience that sense of community which is very prevalent on the path.
The second half of the loch we ventured deeper into the forest to a mossy wonderland very much like a scene out of The Lord of the Rings, with lovely little waterfalls on one side and the vast loch on the other. When we finally reached the end the view behind us was extremely freeing, were finally back out in the open and we had completed Loch Lomond!
Once the Loch was finally over, Tyndrum was our next stop, it was easy to make up the miles now as the flatter path was instantly soothing on our feet. Tyndrum is a great spot to grab some food, we properly treated ourselves at this point at TJ’s diner (an American style diner). We gorged on milkshakes, burgers and churros in hindsight this wasn’t the smartest idea as the sugar crash was inevitable. There is plenty to choose from within Tyndrum, The Good food café serving British classics such as fish and chips and scones both being a highlight on the menu is a recommended for tourist to try out. One recommendation I would make to anyone walking the path would be to stop by The Green Welly which is an iconic landmark of the Highlands to purchase all your souvenirs, load up on snacks and meet other tourists.
Continuing past Tyndrum, we were delighted to find ourselves on a blissfully flat path—a welcome relief after the challenging, tangled roots trails of Loch Lomond. This stretch offered a unique perspective, where three routes lay before us: the footpath, the train tracks, and the main road, all framed by the stunning backdrop of Beinn Dorain. A few miles further, the path gently veered away from the roads and railway, leading us onto the Old Military Road. Here, surrounded by nothing but breathtaking views and the rhythmic crunch of stones underfoot, it truly felt like the heart of the wilderness. We soon reached Bridge of Orchy, a perfect end to this serene section. Bridge of Orchy is a fantastic spot, very tiny but charming place. The stillness is exhilarating. Contradicting to this peace we walked into the Bridge of Orchy hotel, modern but still enchanting with fabulous food and wonderful people. A proper walkers pub. This is a great place to try local Scottish beers/whiskey and traditional Scottish food. Haggis, Neeps and Tatties is a must order whilst in Scotland.
Today was one of our longest days, with over 20 miles ahead of us, so an early start was essential. The first 3 miles started easily before reaching Inveranon Hotel, I knew that this was the last stop before Rannoch Moor where there are no facilities for 10 miles.
Rannoch Moor is often described as “the last remaining wilderness in Britain,” and it truly lives up to its reputation. Wild and awe-inspiring, the path weaves through a dramatic landscape, flanked by towering mountains that seem to stretch endlessly into the sky. There are no towns, no shops, not even the comfort of a toilet, just you and the trail for the next 10 miles, immersed in pure solitude, it offers a rare and humbling sense of being completely at one with nature.
While this section isn’t particularly challenging on its own, the toll of previous days began to weigh on us. Our legs grew weary, and our packs felt heavier with every mile, as if someone were slyly slipping rocks into them with each step we took.
After what felt like an eternity, a shimmering mirage appeared on the horizon: a cluster of pine trees and a large white building, speckled with tiny moving dots that we later realized were deer. The Kingshouse Hotel came into view, gleaming in the afternoon sunshine like a trophy celebrating all we had accomplished that morning. Reaching the hotel felt like a triumph, and it proved to be the perfect respite—a chance to rest our weary feet, warm ourselves by the fireplace, and savour a well-earned pint before tackling the next stage of the journey.
Leaving Kingshouse, we passed Buachaille Etive Mòr, one of the most iconic peaks in the Highlands. Its striking shape, resembling a perfect triangle, looks almost as if it were sketched by a child. Walking around the mountain we soon reached Devils Staircase the highest point on the West Highland Way (1,581ft). After several days on the trail and this morning’s long stretch, I braced myself for Devil’s Staircase. With a name like that, I expected it to be daunting. To my surprise, though, I found the climb far less challenging than Conic Hill! Perhaps it was the lingering boost from a pint (or two) of cider at Kingshouse spurring me on. The views from the summit were nothing short of spectacular stretching across the grandeur of Glencoe, the rugged Mamores, and even as far as Ben Nevis.
Reaching this height was incredibly satisfying. Behind me, the prominent brown line of the path marked the distance conquered, and ahead the long unbroken trail stretched back down, looking endless with Kinlochleven nowhere in sight. The remainder of the path was pure bliss, peaceful and serene, accompanied by the gentle rustling of small birds scuffing along the trail in search of bugs.
Slowly but steadily, we descended into Kinlochleven. You know you’ve arrived when the six towering steel pipes come into view, carrying water from the Blackwater Reservoir, a striking and unmistakable landmark signalling the end of the day’s journey.
Waking up on the last day of the West Highland Way, there was a mix of triumph and exhaustion. My legs were somewhere between “we’ve got this” and “please, no more hills,” while my pack felt like it had doubled in weight overnight. But I knew the final day still had a lot in store for us and needed to make the most of it.
Kinlochleven is a charming little village, offering breath-taking, almost Switzerland-like views and a peaceful stretch of the loch. The path out of Kinlochleven was steeper than expected, realising later that it was an 820ft climb which was more than I was anticipating. We weaved through the winding trail until we reached a clearing at the summit where we were rewarded with one of the finest viewpoints of the entire walk. The scene of Loch Leven stretching below, framed by the jagged ridge of Aonach Eagach in the distance was fantastic. The path from this point gently undulated up the glen, still surrounded by mountains, the journey feels endless. This stretch tested our determination as we knew the end was in site but still had to keep up the pace, as the bus back to Milngavie was pre-booked for the same day.
Kinlochleven was behind us and we were back on the Old Military road surrounded by multiple remnants of the past, from smaller stone ruins to Tigh-na-Sleubhaich (an abandoned cottage offering a tangible connection to Scotland’s military history). I love these little living snippets of the past, these kinds of landmarks serve not only as a testament to the architectural ingenuity of the time but also as a reminder of the struggles and achievement that shaped the nation.
Eventually, the track turned a corner, and the landscape becomes lush with vegetation, here we were greeted with our first glimpse of Ben Nevis. With each step, the towering peak drew closer, we stopped for one last marvel as we knew our journey was coming to an end. The path then winds its way down to the Braveheart Car Park, marking the final stretch to Fort William and the triumphant end of the journey. We did it! Finally touching the famous sign just on the edge of the town marking the official end of the West Highland Way! We ventured into Fort William too gets our pictures with “Man with Sore Feet”, a bronze statue slouched on a bench, boots off, clearly contemplating his life choices. This was a feeling we could deeply relate to in that moment. We took the obligatory photo, of course, but what really struck me was the overwhelming sense of accomplishment.
Sitting in a Fort William pub with a pint that tasted like pure victory, it finally hit me…we’d done it. We’d walked the West Highland Way. As we clinked glasses and debated whether we could ever face our boots again, (of course we could). The trail had been beautiful, brutal but totally worth it.