Walking Offa’s Dyke Path: A 6-Day Journey Through the Welsh Borders
Holly Robertson ·
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Holly Robertson ·
Walking the Offa’s Dyke Path is one of the most rewarding long-distance walks in the UK. This 6-day section from Hay-on-Wye to Chirk takes you along the historic England and Wales border, through rolling countryside, ancient earthworks, and some of the most beautiful landscapes in Britain.
I walked the Offa’s Dyke Path last August, and it really opened my eyes to just how lucky I am to live in the UK. Growing up relatively close to the path, I’ve spent much of my childhood weaving in and out of this so-called Offa’s Dyke Path, spotting the famous acorn symbol on footpath signs but never really paying it much attention.
As the years have gone by, my love for walking has blossomed. Without even realising it, I’ve come to appreciate how fortunate I am to live in one of the most enchanting places in the world. Walking this historic trail along the England and Wales border only deepened that feeling.
I started my journey in Hay-on-Wye, a beautiful book town I’ve always visited when in need of a market town fix or my annual trip to the Hay Festival. Little did I know that this iconic Offa’s Dyke Path route runs right through it.
The walk began gently, winding through farmland and forest, along small country roads and wooded paths. Reaching St Mary’s Church at Newchurch was an unexpected highlight. Nestled in the countryside, with no other facilities nearby, there were cakes, scones, tea and coffee galore, all available by donation. They’ve created a special refuge for Offa’s Dyke walkers, which was very welcome after the first five miles.
After a good rest, I was back on the trail towards my day’s destination, Kington. The iconic Monkey Puzzle trees of Hergest Ridge came into view. It’s always slightly daunting seeing your goal so far in the distance, but it’s amazing how quickly you arrive, and how you look back thinking, did I really cover all that ground so quickly?
Once you believe you can do it, you really can. The sense of accomplishment at the end of each day is incredible. I’m not naturally competitive and haven’t often pushed myself physically, but this Offa’s Dyke walk proved that if you dedicate the time and put your mind to it, you can do the unthinkable.
Kington itself was lovely, and there’s something particularly satisfying about setting off from a sleepy town early in the morning. I have to say, I was incredibly lucky with the weather. Bright sunshine and blue skies added so much to the experience, especially for walking in Wales.
This day offered some of the most beautiful views of the entire Offa’s Dyke Path. Rolling fields stretched in every direction, with the sweet sounds of the countryside to keep me company, from the whistling of the summer wind to the symphony of birds and the occasional call of a red kite.
It was also the first time I properly encountered the Dyke itself. Casually sitting atop the ancient 8th-century earthwork, it’s hard to imagine it being hand-dug by order of Offa of Mercia to mark the border between his kingdom and Wales.
The beautiful scenery was soon paid for by the challenge of this stretch from Kington to Knighton, with some significant climbs. They came quickly and sharply. Painful, yes, but the views made it all worthwhile. The steep descent into Knighton felt a bit cruel, knowing that tomorrow would start with another climb.
The following day, from Knighton to Cwm, was a big one and is often considered one of the most challenging sections of the Offa’s Dyke Path.
After a brief visit to the Offa’s Dyke Centre and a quick step between England and Wales, I tackled the first of three serious inclines. Hands on hips, breathless, but instantly rewarded with a view of the Knucklas Viaduct and its 13 arches from 1865.
Soon after came Llanfair Hill, one of the highest points the Dyke reaches. The sun was relentless, and I found myself resting under a tree near Newcastle, worrying slightly about my water supply. But just before the next big climb, I came across a conveniently placed water tap, which gave me the boost I needed. It was literally and figuratively all uphill from there.
The final climb was the longest and hardest, but it took me right along the Dyke’s crest, where the scenery was ever-changing and breathtaking. The higher I climbed, the more the landscape unfolded like a patchwork quilt of green.
Something I’d also like to highlight about walking Offa’s Dyke is the nature of the climbs. Yes, they can be steep and challenging, and there’s no getting around that. But they’re short lived. Before you know it, you’re back on gentler ground, catching your breath and enjoying the views.
I ended the day at St John’s Baptist Church. I’m not particularly religious, but the sanctuary of an old church on a hot day felt like pure heaven.
Today couldn’t have been more different. Flat as a pancake. Most of the day was spent wandering through dry, sun-scorched fields. While easier on the legs, the hard ground made it tough underfoot.
One steep woodland incline towards Beacon Ring caught me by surprise, with its sudden change in scenery. The hill fort itself dates to the late Bronze to early Iron Age and has been used as a beacon site since at least the 17th century.
From there, I descended to Buttington, catching a glimpse of All Saints Church far below. There’s always something rewarding about seeing the day’s end in sight.
The next stretch to Llanymynech was mercifully gentle, with a maximum elevation under 200ft, just what I needed after the gruelling hills.
It also happened to be the hottest day of the trip, reaching 30°C. To say I was covered in suncream is an understatement. I was very grateful that the flattest day aligned with the hottest weather.
Luckily, this section of the Offa’s Dyke Path included shaded stretches along the Montgomery Canal. The reeds, roots and greenery were overgrown at this time of year, with bugs skating along the water and ducks chasing them. I even spotted the occasional carp swimming through.
I took my time that day and reminded myself to slow down and soak up the serenity that everyday life rarely allows.
Before I knew it, I was setting out on my final leg of the Offa’s Dyke Path, from Llanymynech to Chirk. That sense of achievement really kicked in. There’s nothing quite like seeing how far you’ve come.
The day began with a steep climb up to Llanymynech Hillfort. The miles seemed to fly by, and I had that bittersweet feeling of only just getting started.
A short stretch of road walking was a relief after the dry fields, and I made a well-earned stop at the shop in Trefonen. I don’t think I’ve ever appreciated a bottle of Lucozade quite so much.
Just outside Trefonen is the Old Mill at Candy, home to The Kettle House. A self-service café right on the trail, with homemade treats, tea, coffee, and even plasters and essentials for walkers. It’s gestures like this that make walking the Offa’s Dyke Path feel so special and welcoming.
The rest of the day brought shaded woodland, sweeping views, and a growing sense of pride. I ended my journey at 4:36 pm, legs weary but heart full. Six days of adventure, challenge, and discovery along one of the UK’s most beautiful walking routes.
Walking the Offa’s Dyke Path is one of the best long-distance walks in the UK, and this 6-day itinerary is a perfect way to experience it.
It’s more than just a walking route. It’s a journey through history, landscapes, and personal growth. Each day brings something different, from steep climbs and sweeping views to quiet moments along canals and hidden countryside spots.
If you’re considering walking the Offa’s Dyke Path, I can honestly say it’s an experience that stays with you long after you’ve finished.
Until next time…